This is what I used.
1 x 2080 and 3 x 2040 aluminiums profiles, M6x8 bolts, Ø10 threaded rods, and right angle joiners and a bed leg.
The 2 meter 2080 was cut to : 1250mm - 310mm - 250mm + extra.
The 3 pieces of 2040 were cut to : 1000mm - 500mm - 85mm - 4x250mm + extra.
A bed leg attached to the back is mounted in a bike stand so I can turn the jig upside down.
The blueprints are quite simple. Nothing complicated.
The pointy bits from an e-bay car mods page (rear bumper spikes). I removed the anodised colour with drain cleaner.
A plate for the spirit level is mounted on the front .When that is level I can set the seat tube and head tube angles.
See the finished result. More difficult than I imagined to make. Has to be stiff and straight. But now I have a cheap jig that works.
So my next project was to build a bamboo road frame. And to try out my new jig.
What is in the box? See pictures below. Worth mentioning is that the right side rear end was poorly cut from aluminium and the dropout was not threaded????? I can see they have now changed the design. Though I do prefer the design I have as it is more easily modified.
And what is not in the box? Front derailleur holder and gear cable holders.
What the beer is for I don’t know.
I used my jig and design and not the kits jig or design.
After glueing the frame is wrapped in plastic to protect the parts not getting wrapped in hemp.
After applying the epoxy soaked hemp insulation tape is used to compress the hemp and epoxy.
I used a 6mm plastic tube for the internal brake cable and the plastic part of a Campagnolo Ergopower gear lever adapter for the rear gear cable.
One of the tubes was badly cracked. I used it anyway but it failed after 1 day - so I had to replace it. A good thing that there were extra tubes in the kit. But it did give a lot of extra work as the epoxy is very time consuming to remove. But at least I could see first hand that the tubes are well and truly joined together.
Frame weight is 1.74 kg.
I used Spray Bike cans to paint the frame. And maritime epoxy clear lacquer for the tubes.
Frame
Fork
Headset
Stem
Bar
Tape
Props
Brake cables
Calipers
Pads
Post
Seat clamp
Saddle
BB
Chain set
Pedal
GripShift
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Gear cables
Tyre
Tube
Protection
Wheel set
Spokes
Rims
Hubs
Skewers
Cassette
Chain
Cage
Bottle
Shoes
Bell
GPS
WEIGHT
Tange Prestige Concept
Tange crmo
Stronglight O’Light
Tange Shogun Zero
Tange Shogun Dynax
ATI
ATI
Magura
Magura HS11 Evo2
Magura
Procraft classic
Steel
Brooks Cambium C15 fiberglass
Shimano UN72
Truvativ Firex SL
Look Trail Grip
SRAM ESP 9.0
SRAM ESP 9.0
SRAM ESP 9.0
Jagwire
Panaracer Razor XC
Busetto
Panaracer Flat-Away
Alpina
FIR M125
Shimano Deore LX
Condor
SRAM PG830
SRAM PG830
Delta stainless
Condor
Knog Oi Lux
10.96 kg incl. Pedals
My Olmo Sportman from 1996 is mainly for winter use. I suppose you could call it my winter hack. It is a cheap frame with Campagnolo Mirage parts. And Alexrims just to be different. The all weather Cambium saddle is a bit sticky. It has a rubber like surface. Can’t slide around on it. Not much else to say really. Great bike. Had a red OLMO Gran Prix back in the early 1980’s. Also a cheap frame. Falck tubes. But I think Oria tubes are way more cool. Have sprayed inside the tubes with linseed oil. To stop any rust from the salted winter roads. I don’t know if it works but it is better than nothing as the top tube is completely open where the brake cable enters and exits.
